April 3rd-Da Nang and Hoi An, "South" Vietnam

   Sometimes the thing that makes you feel warm and open to a new place is your guide and his smiling bus operator. Luat had a gift in knowing how much and when to infuse his pearls of wisdom about Da Nang and his home, in the ancient town of Hoi An. We had a beautifully balanced introduction of the ancient as well as the more modern history of these areas just 175 kilometers below what used to be the north/south border of Viet Nam. Da Nang was the site of a large American Air base during the "American War", as it is known here. We were amazed at how welcoming the townspeople were to us. Our tourist dollars are very important too. Da Nang city now is bustling and alot of infrastructure work is in progress all over. Many international hotels are planting roots along the beautiful beaches here bordering the "East" Sea (not recognized as the East China Sea.) Once again, the traditional ways of living for the majority of the population... fishing, oyster farming, rice farming are intermeshed and it is not uncommon to see water buffalo or cows undauntingly saunter across the new highways.

Here in the shadow of the hillside female Budda, are several round "junks." These boats are used to meet the deep-sea fishing boats and carry their catches back to the local markets or floating fishing villages. According to Luat, they are still kept afloat with several layers of  "morning water buffalo dung" sun-dried in stages and finally varnished with a boiling layer of gumtree sap...good to go for another 6 months! A single oarsman stands in the far front and figure 8s the oar to maneuver...amazing to watch.

Hoi An Marble carving area

   Hoi An was a trading destination for many european, indian and chinese merchantmen of the 16th and 17th centuries. Vestages of each culture are found in remaining temples and bridges and even some styles of artwork and carvings.